Hand Knit Capelet

Status: Generator works, but I need to add the HK schematic and code the yardage estimator based on the amount of yarn I used in my test knit cape!

greenCollar This page has a pattern generator (aka program) to create a pattern for a hand knit capelet, cape or collar. I am modeling a 16" log cape to the left. I knit that from 140 grams the most wonderful mohair imaginable. You can design your own cape and knit it from any yarn you like. You can also enter a very short length, and create a pattern for a collar; I'm modeling one to the right. Machine knitters can also create a pattern by visiting the machine knit capelet page.

Main site, blog, Poncho & Cape collection, hats, mittens & gloves.

You must set your browser to run javascript and to accept cookies to run this program.

Characteristics of the capelet:

Knit from the neck down to the hem using circular needles.
Optional 1.5" attached roll collar.
Tied closed with Idiot-Cord.
Garter stitch edging and front and hem.
Short row shaping near hem to ensure front isn't longer than back.
Short row shaping at neck to raise back neck.
You can pick the shoulder width, neck opening size and length to fit you.
You can enter your stitch and row gauge to get the pattern for your yarn.
This pattern is simple, but you should be familiar with knitting short rows, and working increases. (Although, I think if you know how to handle the needles, this is a good pattern to learn both techniques You work zillions of increases first. Then you advance to short rows. )
I knit my red capelet using slightly less than 140 grams of mohair; the yardage was 630 meters altogether. I plan to write a yardage estimator by the end of the week. (It's Tuesday Dec. 6 today!)

Remember: Like all patterns spit out by my generators, this is mostly shaping directions. The purpose of the generators is to let you be creative, while eliminating the need to do pesky calculations. This generator will let you make exactly the cape shown, but I encourage you to add your own touches.

Lucia

Design your capelet

To design your capelet, you must pick a neck opening, a shoulder width and a front length. These three items are illustrated in the very small schematic to the right. To learn more about this, read the design page, which will show a larger schematic and explain what you need to enter. I have entered the dimensions I used for my red hand knit cape as the default in the program.

Have fun knitting the capelet,
Lucia

Enter Data for Your Cape

You must modify the following data to match the gauge and shape you want! Just change the numbers; it recalculates automatically.

Replace My Gauge Swatch Information Your Gauge Swatch Information
Advice: Hitting the tab key after entering the number in the box seems the most reliable way to update values.
Note your needle diameter on your directions in pen. You must use the same knitting needle diameter when knitting the swatch and the cape.
Stitches per inch:
Rows per inch:

Replace My Cape Shape Parameters with Yours
Data to enter.	Information.
Neck opening inches.	Make this the size of your neck or looser. The cape closes with a little tie, which can cinch up an little extra length.
Shoulder Width: inches.	The "shoulder width" is the width you'd like the cape to be near your shoulders. Measure across your back, from shoulder point to shoulder point.
Front length of cape: inches.	Enter the length you'd like for the front of the cape. This is entirely a matter of style. The pink cape I am wear on the machine knit page about is 11-12" long; the red one is 16-17" long.

Results: Your Cape Pattern

Don't try to edit anything below this point. If you want to change them, change values in the table above. The summary tables are for informational purposes only. This is a program. So, please read through al the directions and make sure no negative numbers appear. (I try to think about where they might appear and create a warning box, but I don't always think of them all.)

Yarn Estimate:

Will exist after I code it. My red, hand knit cape required nearly seven 20 gram balls of mohair. Each ball had 90 meters of yarn. If you get here, and I haven't coded the yarn estimate, email me and bug me! (It's easy, I just need to do it. And... people have been asking me to code the newsboy hat... and...)

Materials:
You will need at least 1 circular needle sufficiently long to hold all the stitches at the hem of the cape. I used a 16" one near the neck and a 24" one near the hem. (Mohair really fits on a short needle. If you are knitting this in something like worsted yarn, you'll want a longer needle.) Scissors, tapestry needle, some crochet cotton, a long scrap of old yarn for waste yarn. (I used about 3 yards of red heart.)

Knitting Instructions.

Some abbreviations and instructions:
M1 = Make 1 in stitch below creates a new stitch without leaving a little hole. It may be used when you want an increase that blends in with the knitting around it. There are two methods: 1) Insert tip of the right hand needle in the top of the stitch below the stitch on the left hand needle. Knit this stitch. Afterwards, knit the stitch on left needle. 2) Insert the tip of left hand needle in top of the stitch two stitches below the one you just knit (which is now on the right needle). Now, insert the tip of the right needle into the same stitch and knit it. Knit next stitch on left needle.

When working this cape, you will be making 1 on both sides of a central stitch. For perfect symmetry, you should use method #2 for the first M1, and method #1 for the second one M1. However, your cape will turn out fine if you work both using method #1, which is slightly easier. I used the first method for both increases because the increase doesn't show in mohair.

If you need to work an odd number or rows between increases, you may need to M1 on purl rows. Insert the tips as described above, but purl.

If you don't like to use M1 to increase, you can substitute any increase. If you like holes to show along the increases, could simply yarn over, and make sure you knit into the yarn over on the next row.

SSK= slip, slip knit. You may need to work this decrease when you shape the neck. K2tog= knit 2 together. This is also a decrease.

Knit Major Cape Piece

To understand the pattern, it will help to understand the construction. examine the schematic to the right.

Your cape pattern has 8 increase "rays" and 2 shoulder darts. These rays are illustrated by diagonal lines; you should see four on the front schematic. There are also four on the back. You can't see them in the illustration, but there are also increase "rays" at the shoulders; however, these from the neck to the shoulders; all others run from the neck to the hem. These shoulder rays form darts, and cause the shoulders flatten out for good fit. (If you continue them to the hem, the cape will flare out very, very wide).

For the most part, this cape is knit from the neck to the hem. You will cast on using a cheaters provisional cast on at the level of the front neck and knit down toward the hem. Instruction number 3a will tell you to place a 10 stitch markers; these are the location of the "rays". In order to discuss operations at later points in the directions, I label these 1f, 2f on front, 3 at the shoulders and 2b, 1b the back.

As you knit down, you will increase 1 stitch on both sides of each stitch marker every rows. The normal procedure for doing this is: Knit across until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, M1 stitch, knit the stitch before the marker, slip the marker, knit the stitch after the marker, M1 stitch, and continue. This places 2 stitches and a marker between each "M1" increase. However, if this is an odd number, you will need to learn to work "M1" increases from both the knit and purl side of the fabric. Just purl over until there is 1 stitch before the marker, M1, knit the stitch, slip the marker, knit a stitch, M1. (You may want to practice this at the edge of your swatch.) You will want to practice this on a swatch to be sure you can M1 inconspicuously.

You will stop increasing at the shoulder markers when the cape is long enough to cover your shoulders. Other than that, just keep knitting toward the hem. Just before you reach the hem, you will work short rows to make the back longer than the front. This just looks better. A "short row" is one where you knit part way across the row, but turn the work and knit back before you reach the end of the row. Even if you have never done this before, you will find it is very easy to do. The directions will tell you precisely what to do, and will describe how to "wrap and turn" to avoid a little hole. (If you wear a DD cup bra, you might want to try the cape on and evaluate the fit. It may turn out you want skip the short rows.)

After working the short rows, you finish off by working a few rows of garter stitch and bind off.

At that point, you will work the neck and collar. You will pick up the stitches near the cast on, and knit up, working short rows to shape the back neck. To make it easy to pick up the stitches, and avoid a ridge, I have organized the construction so that you work a cheater's provisional cast on, near the neck and work down to the hem. A cheater's provisional cast on is easier than real provisional cast on, and even a beginner can do it. I include a photograph to show you how to pick up the stitches so you never have stitches just hanging there, dangling.

Knitting Instructions

Cheater's Provisional Cast On:
1. Using whatever method you find easiest, cast on stitches with scrap or waste yarn. (You will be taking this yarn off and wasting it. You don't even need to do a good job. ) Purl a row.
2. With 1 or 2 strands of crochet cotton (or any very slippery yarn), knit across the row. Break, leaving a long strand.
Cape Itself:
1. Row 1: Begin at center front with knit side facing.
  1. (Knit stitches, place stitch marker 1f , knit stitches, place stitch marker 2f, knit stitches, place stitch marker 3, (shoulder), knit stitches, place stitch marker 2b, knit stitches, place stitch marker 1b; knit stitches. (Optional: Place a safety pin between the stitch on the needle and the next stitch. This marks the center back and can be convenient when you count stitches later on.) There should be 10 markers; the safety pin at the back is not considered a marker for the purpose of these directions.
  2. Now work step a in reverse order to the end of the row. That is, hang markers symmetrically relative to the center back.
2. Row 2: Work all stitches as they present themselves. ( In this case, purl all stitches.)
3. Row 3: (Increase row) **Knit up to the stitch just before the stitch maker marker, M1 stitch, knit the stitch before the marker, slip the marker, knit the stitch after the marker, M1 stitch, ** repeat across row. (Note: do not increase at the center back! When you have finished this row, you will have increased 2 stitches on either side of the 10 stitch makers. You should stitches on the needle).
4. Plain rows. Row 4- : Work stitches as they present themselves.
5. Increase row: Row : Work stitches as the present themselves, but increase on either side of markers as for row 2. You will increase a total of 20 stitches.
6. Repeat steps d and e, working one increase row every rows.
Shape lower Cape.
1. When work measures inches from the foundation row, stop working increases at the two shoulder markers (these were #3 when you worked the foundation row.) Continue working an increases at the other markers every rows. This means from now on, you will be increasing 16 stitches rather than 20 stitches each increase row.
2. Note: If you entered your row gauge correctly, you will have knit rows and worked increase rows. If you spread the stitches out on two long circular needles or on a long string, it will look something like the picture above. If this cape is for you, try the cape on and see if it reaches your shoulders. If the cape is too short, continue knitting a few more rows to make the cape shoulder width. If it is too long, you could unravel a few rows. (Although, I wouldn't unravel. Making the shoulders too wide just creates a cape with a little extra flare. It's not a big problem. )
Body: Work until center front or back measures inches from cast on with knit side facing. (Or cape is almost as long as you want the front to be.)
Shape hem: You will now work short rows to make the back of the cape slightly longer than the front. I find it convenient to cut some pieces of string to mark the end of the short rows. While you are working short rows, continue to increase at on either side of the markers as you have been since the shoulders.
1. Knit across row until there are only stitches remaining on the left needle. Bring yarn forward as to purl, slip stitch bring yarn back, turn work so purl side is facing you, slip stitch.] (The operation inside the [] is called a "wrap". It prevents a hole when you work short rows.) Optional: lay a piece of string between the wrapped stitch and the last stitch actually knit. This helps with counting and figuring out when to turn on later short rows.
2. Purl across the row until there are only stitches remaining on the left needle. [Slip the next stitch, turn work so knit side is facing you, bring yarn forward as to purl, slip stitch, bring yarn back as to knit.] (The operation inside the [ ] is a wrap worked after a purl row.) Optional: lay a piece of string between the wrap stitch and the last stitch actually knit.
3. If the wraps in step a and b are between the shoulder markers (numbered #3 in step 2) and the center front, knit across row until there are stitches on the left needle. Wrap and turn. Purl back until there are only stitches on the left needle. (Note: if you laid the piece of string as suggested, you are turning stitches before reaching the string.)
4. If you did not knit past the shoulder markers in step a and b, and find yourself knitting only "back" stitches, you are finished knitting short rows. Go on to step 6. (This will happen if you are knitting a collar.)
5. Continue working short rows, but increasing the number of stitches remaining on the left needle when you turn by each time. You are finished knitting short rows when on the front side of the cape, ending on a knit side facing row. (That is, when you are no longer knitting any stitches between the center front and the shoulder markers -- #3 in step 2. )
6. When you reach this row, just continue knitting to the end of the row.
Finish Hem: Turn so purl side is facing. Work 4 rows of garter stitch. Bind off loosely. Have fun trying the cape on so far!
Raise back neck:
1. At neck, place a safety pin in the gap between the four pairs of stitches that were marked with "b" markers in row 1; also place safety pins to mark the shoulders (markers #3). You will have placed 6 safety pins.
2. With a knitting needle, pick up all stitches from the first row of the fashion yarn as illustrated to the right. It's pretty easy to see the difference between the fashion yarn and the crochet cotton-- so just catch the cape stitches. There should be stitches on the needle. (This is one less than you cast on, because you flipped over the knitting, every thing is shifted over a half stitch, and you lose 1/2 stitch on each edge.)
3. Remove crochet cotton by snipping at various places and pulling it out. If you used a slippery yarn, this just comes out. The only fiddly bit are the pulling through the two edge stitches, so it's convenient to snip just inside there. The cast on row will also fall off and you will be left with live stitches.
4. You will now work short rows and decreases at the stitch makers. Working short rows raises the back neck which prevents the cape from pitching forward unattractively. Continuing to decrease just extends the increase lines you created as you worked down to the hem -- that is: decrease on either side of the stitch marked with the safety pin if you are knitting short rows past those stitches. The firstdecrease row will be after that, work a decrease row every rows. (You will probably work only 1 or 2 decreases rows, unless you are using very thin yarn.) To work the decreases, k2 tog, before the marked stitch, and SSK after the marked stitch. Since this is difficult to do on a purl row, if the scheduled decrease turns out to be a purl row, wait one row and decrease on the next row.
5. Start actually knitting: Call this row 1: With knit side facing, attach yarn at center front, knit past first shoulder (first marker #3), then up to the second shoulder (second marker # 3). Wrap and turn.
6. Row 2: Purl back to the other shoulder (marker #3) wrap and turn. Now, knit back until there are two stitches left before the wrap worked two rows previously. Wrap and turn.
7. Continue working short rows, working 2 stitches short of the earlier wrap, until you are no longer knitting any stitches outside markers labeled "1b", ending on a knit side facing row. Knit across to the center front.
Collar:
1. Row 1: Count the number of stitches on the needle. If it is an odd number, decrease 1 stitch near the center back when working the next row.
2. With purl side facing, knit across row. (This makes a purl ridge on the front, defining the neck edge.)
3. Row 2: **Knit 2, yarn over**, repeat operation between **'s to end of the row, ending with knit 2. (The yarn over forms holes which permit you to thread an I-Cord tie, crochet chain, or ribbon to use as a closure.)
4. Row 3: Knit all stitches including the yarn overs. (This increases the number of stitches and makes the collar ruffle a bit.)
5. Later rows: continue knitting stockinette until collar measures 1 1/2", or the length you prefer. Bind off.
Front trim: edges: Pick up 1 stitches every 2 rows on one front edge. Knit 3 rows garter stitch. Bind off. Repeat on other edge. (Note, the general rule for picking up is 2 stitches for 3 rows or 3 stitches for 4 rows. However, garter stitch spreads, and I find 1 stitch for 2 rows works well. Also, I really don't want the front to droop down. Do try this on after knitting the first edge and decide if you like it. If not, rip and adjust.)
Work a long I-Cord strand as follows: Cast on 3 stitches using a doubled pointed needle (DPN). Row 1: knit the three stitches. Do not turn work! Slide the stitches across the DPN, so you can start knitting the wrong end of the row. Row 2: With knit side facing, pull yarn firmly to tighten the strand across the back of the work. Knit the three stitches. Do not turn work, but slide it over. Row 3: Repeat row 2. Continue knitting without turning. The work will form a tube. When the cord is the length you like, break yarn, pull through the three stitches, and tidy ends. Thread through the holes at base of collar. (You may also crochet this cord, or substitute a satin ribbon.)
Tidy up all loose ends, steam or block as appropriate for your yarn. Wear.